Chuseok in Busan
Video of Week 6 (part 3)
This is a continuation from my last post.
Day 5 | 10.06.17: Train to Busan
My group took the 5:00AM Mugunghwa train to Busan from Seoul. The Mugunghwa train runs on the local track (makes more stops) therefore, much cheaper (24,300 KRW - 28,600 KRW, duration of ride: 5.5 hrs) than the KTX (50,800 KRW - 83,700 KRW, duration: 2.5 hrs). We arrived at Busan station at around 10:30AM.
Tip: Buy your transportation tickets (plane, boat, train, etc.) early before any holiday! We had planned to go to Jeju during our one week Chuseok break but tickets were either all sold out or very expensive and at odd times. I've heard that people book their tickets at least half a year in advance, but I'm sure it's fine as long as you book at least 1-2 months in advance (a couple of exchange students I met were able to go to Jeju). We were able to reserve our train tickets about 2 weeks in advance.
Before dropping our luggage at our friends' Airbnb (around Nampodong area I believe) we ate at a nearby restaurant. I ordered a spicy octopus bibimbap in a hot stone pot and it costed only 5,500 KRW! (In New York, this would cost at least $12)
1. National Maritime Museum (국립해양박물관)
From Yeongdo Bridge, we took bus #186 directly to the museum.
Free admission excluding 4D Theater and Special Exhibitions
Highly recommend if you are into marine and ocean life. However, it wasn't for me but I wouldn't say it was a waste of time since it was free!
2. Seafood & BIFF Square (BIFF 광장)
After touring the museum, we met up with our friends (exchange students at Hanyang University, from my home university) that were already in Busan during the beginning of Chuseok. I wanted to try grilled eel since I really love unagi (Japanese grilled eel). We found a place that served spicy grilled baby eel. Unfortunately, it was not the same as regular bbq eel. Since baby eel is smaller, there was barely any meat. We each paid about 12,000 KRW (total was ~60,000 KRW) which was expensive since the meal was small for 5 of us.
Expectation:
(taken from eatinkorea.com)
Reality:
After our small dinner, we walked around the food markets in Busan International Film Festival Square (BIFF Square). We got an order of napjjak mandu* (납짝만두, flat dumplings served with a side of spicy cabbage strips). The man that owned the stall was very friendly and generous. Since we were sharing one order, he gave us extra dumplings for free! I highly recommend this dish!
3. Capsule Hotel: Ark Blue
(taken from airbnb.com)
For 1-2 nights, a capsule hotel is a fun experience with friends. We reserved the room with 4 bunks beds (we were a group of 8). The room is small since the beds take up most of the space. There are 4 cubicles/beds on the bottom and 4 on top. Each cubicle has a charging port, a headboard that unfolds into a table surface and has internal storage compartments, and of course a bed set. The room has 1 big bathroom. The hotel has an elevator, complementary beverages in the lobby, a rooftop lounge and a laundry room.
Cost: ~19,000 KRW per person per night
4. Haeundae Beach (해운대해수욕장)
After unloading our luggage into our room, we walked to Haeundae beach to relax, talk and drink. Although this is the most famous and touristy beach in Busan, it was surprisingly not crowded even during the Chuseok holiday.
Tip: Don't be like me and forget your ID especially when buying alcoholic beverages at the convenience store.
Tip: Haeundae Beach is great for a night stroll. There are interesting street performances, fireworks, and night life.
Day 6 | 10.07.17: Heightened Senses
1. See, Sound, Smell, Taste, Touch | Jagalchi Market (부산 자갈치시장)
Late morning (~11:00AM), we started our day at the Jagalchi Market. From Haeundae area, we took subway line 2 and transferred to line 1. Some things we ate:
1. Spicy fried octopus
2. Ssiat hotteok* (씨앗호떡, Busan specialty, instead of brown sugar and cinnamon syrup, these are filled with nuts and seeds)
3. Traditional twisted donuts (kkwabaeggi (꽈배기))
4. Fish cake* (much higher quality than Seoul, only 800 KRW)
Other than seafood, Busan is also known for their jokbal (족발, pig's feet/trotters). There's a whole street of vendors selling this dish in the market.
2. See, Sound, Touch | Gamcheon Cultural Village
From Jagachi Market, you can take bus #87 and #134. To get to the actual village from the bus stop, you have to take a smaller bus. There is a lot of them available driving around. I don't remember what they are called but it is a touristy area and the buses have signs indicating the landmarks/sites they stop at.
Warning: The smaller buses are very small therefore it can be crowded. The path into the village is narrow and at a slope.
The village is beautiful. There is so much to see and so much to take in. The colors of the houses and the fun whimsical murals are picturesque and perfect for your Instagram page.
Also, CATS!
Tip: Make sure to walk around and explore the village because there are many cafes, shops, and exhibitions.
I also wanted to visit Taejongdae (태종대유원지), but we started our day late so there was not enough time to add in another landmark. The last bus leaving (?) Taejongdae was also at around 5:30PM (I could be wrong, but I remember it was early).
3. See, Sound, Smell, Taste, Touch | Hwe (Korean Raw Fish)
Back to Jagalchi market for fresh (literally saw the fish alive, filet, straight to our table) gwangeo fish* (flounder). We got to pick the size of our fish (don't remember how much it weighed, but it costed ~46,000 KRW) which was more than enough for 5 people.
Tip: I definitely recommend dining in the fish market. The bottom level is where you can choose your seafood (live in tanks and buckets) and the upper level is the restaurant. Dining in is 4,000 KRW per person, but you get side dishes and drinks. The restaurant will prepare your seafood how you want it (raw, stew, etc.). There are also other dishes you can order.
Warning: Unlike Japanese sashimi where the fish is very soft and buttery, Korean raw fish is a lot chewier since the fish is eaten right away.
In total we each paid 13,200 KRW which is so affordable for fresh seafood.
Day 7 | 10.08.17: You, Me and the Sea
1. Oryukdo (오륙도)
Name explanation: Oryukdo is made up of 5 (= 오 (oh) in Korean) or 6 (= 륙 (ryuk) in Korean) islands depending on the day and tide. All of the islands are uninhabited except for one which has a lighthouse.
It is a beautiful coastal area. You can probably see Japan from here. From Busan, you can actually take a ferry to Jeju Island and Fukuoka, Japan.
There is also a skywalk, but the line was too long when I was there.
2. Dwaeji Gukbap (돼지국밥, Pork and Rice Soup)
Before leaving Busan, we made sure to try the famous Busan dish, dweji gukbap*, a soup made with spices and lots of sliced pork. The soup isn't spicy but is very rich in pork flavor and fermented bean paste and jammed pack with a lot of pork. This warming soup is perfect with rice and kimchi. We ate this dish at Sinchang Gukbap (신창국밥) at their location near Busan Station.
This was a perfect last meal in Busan.
*bolded items: must-try/recommended items
All photos and video footage (unless otherwise stated) are taken by Kaity Chen. Please credit if using.